CONDITIONS:
Early mist at Rowerdenan, cloud cover at summit.
Temp base: 4C Summit -1C
COMMENTS:
On arrival at Rowerdenan car park, the scene was absolutely gorgeous, with mist rising slowly from the loch and resting around 100ft above the water. High above, the mountain peak of Ben Lomond sat proudly above its own cloud collar, punching into the clear reddish sky above. In general the weather seemed perfect for climbing, with sparse patchy cloud and little to no wind. Having climbed Ben Lomond before, my planned route today was to walk up the same tourist route but return via the Ptarmigan ridge for the first time.
Setting off up the well established route, i was immediately struck by the amount of work carried out on the path since my previous visit a few years before. On my last visit i hadn't noticed any anti erosion work, however, on this trip i couldn't miss it. From stairways constructed in stone, and path crossing culverts lined in slate, the measures were blatantly obvious. What had happened? The route looked more like a pedestrian footpath in a shopping precinct, than the hardly distinguishable hill route i previously loved. Although i am fully aware of the need for conversation of these routes, this was way over the top in my opinion. Surely the user expects some hardship to reach the summit of a Munro, rather than holding their hand all the way up?
This artificial feeling was ruining my walk, but thankfully the impact of the path began to lessen as i left the forested section behind, emerging onto the higher grass covered slopes beyond the first gate. The climb was now well under way with steeper gradients leading to Sron Aonaich, which gives the novice the first glimpse of many false summits. As i crested the steep rise, sucking in the fresh clean air, i was once again taken by the glorious scenery of the Loch. By now the mist had risen to peak level and the morning sun was bathing the waters in sunshine. Life too was becoming more evident, with boats on the loch and more activity in the visitors centre below, but the main attraction to me was the crowning glory of the mountain up ahead.
As the altitude increased, the temperature fell and i took the opportunity to put on another layer, donning the warm hat and gloves too. Pausing briefly to take pictures of the southern highland boundary fault line as it crosses the loch, i then turned away marching onwards and upwards. Within a further 40 minutes i had reached the point around 200m below the summit. The next section from memory was tough, so slowing down, i began to pick my way through the snowy zig zag path as it rose up the mountain. By now there was climbers visible behind me, but nothing in front and i really enjoyed placing my feet in the deep snow rising steadily.
Within 20 minutes i was at yards from the summit and enjoying a private viewing of the surrounding scenery. It was almost godly. In my mind, I was the only person for miles, standing atop a mountain with literally the world at my feet. With only my sub zero breathe as a companion, i reached the summit in a little over 2 hours. The top was cold and exposed but this only enhanced the feeling of remote serenity. I was really enjoying myself. The view of the other Arrochar Alps, the Highlands to the north and east and the flatter southern reaches of the loch present a wonderful spectacle, a true testimony to the varied landscapes of our country.
After a brief lunch stop, taking my map heading, i dropped down the north side of the summit looking for the path down to Ptarmigan. This was very hairy. Entirely not what I expected after, what is in general, an easy climb. The initial section is a vertical scramble through 30m of rock, followed quickly by 100m of steep graded rocky paths. At one point the path has a pinch point, a very narrow section, no ore then 500mm wide, where the potential drop to the north was 1000ft and the drop to the south at least 600ft. Very nerve racking, but plenty hand holds got my shaking legs over the worst of this before the path relaxes a bit.
From the rocky outcrops the path continues to meander along the obvious ridge and down towards Ptarmigan. Not to be taken lightly at any time, the path criss crosses to control the descent but this keeps the excitement high and the boredom usually apparent in most return trips, well in check. After at least 90 mins and some very wet muddy steps, i emerged back onto the solid ground which is the road leading back to visitors centre, however, if you think that finishes the walk you would be mistaken, as it is still 15 minutes to the cars.
CONCLUSION:
Although a demanding chore at times, spoiled by the unnatural anti-erosion works to the path, this was a fine climb, enhanced by the scenery, the weather and the snowy top. Having never climbed a Munro more than once before, this experience certainly left me wanting to go up Ben Lomond again. What better compliment could a mountain ask for?
RATING: Great in spells, scenery wonderful, path poor. 7/10
EFFORT: Medium.
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