Beinn Ime

DATE:                        June 2009

LOCATION:              Beinn Ime via Arrochar

CONDITIONS:         Overcast / warm

COMMENTS:

Since my last visit to the Arrochar Alps, when I climbed Ben Arthur, I have been desperate to get back into the hills. Today I planned to climb the highest of these being, Beinn Ime which, at 3315ft, is about 370ft higher than the Cobbler, and an extra 3km round trip following the same access route. Viewing the mountain from the top of the cobbler, it felt more remote but did appear to be a less rugged climb than just completed. 

Parking in the same car park as previously, I headed up the zigzag path from Loch Long, following the same access route towards the bealach a’Mhaim. With more warmth in the air, than previously in early March, the climb was most enjoyable, but a bit of sunshine would have been nice. I suppose we can’t have everything. Reaching the top of the Allt a'Bhalachain burn in around 1 hr, I enjoyed a brief respite on Arthur’s seat before taking the second spur of the path over the bealach towards the conical shape of Beinn Ime.

Continuing on along well established path, I was struck by the peacefulness of the walk. Being a Saturday in June, I thought the hills would be busy with fellow walkers, but so far I had passed no one, and viewed no one else on the surrounding hills. In fact the only company I had was a few individual sheep on the far slopes of Beinn Narnain. Strange, but the solitude was enjoyable all the same.

Within half an hour I was half way up the southern slope of Beinn Ime, following the easily identifiable path over the marshy wet ground. Getting higher, the ‘rest and be thankful’ far below to the west and Loch Sloy to the east came into view. This accentuated the height of the mountain and made me appreciate the safety felt on this easy regular slope.

Reaching the summit area in around 2hrs, the wind was now actively buffeting my progress and I sought shelter to eat my lunch in peace. This was found on the western side of the mountain just below the cairn, in a small cluster of boulders. A perfect spot in out of the wind, allowed me to enjoy my rest, watching the shadows play on the infamous road towards Inverary below.

With the temperature drop at this height, I was uncomfortable within 20 mins, and headed back down through very sparse sunshine. On the way down towards the Bealach, I passed my first fellow walker, who probably felt I had never seen another human being before, as I prattled on. Probably glad to see the back of me, I dropped further down on in into the valley in the shadow of the Cobbler.

Within another 90 mins I had returned to my car after a satisfying 4hr trek. My final thought, driving away was that Beinn Ime would be a wonderful mountain in the winter. Having a relatively safe route through snow, might just make this trek advance from a good day out to a wonderful one. We will see.

CONCLUSIONS:

Terrific walk in good dry weather, with easily identifiable markers and route. The scenery is great, and being only 1hr from Glasgow, can be enjoyed relatively easily. Definitely a mountain I will return to, especially in winter, for added dramatic effect.

Beinn Ime summit looking down towards the Rest and be Thankful road.

Ben Arthur - The Cobbler

DATE:                        March 2009

LOCATION:              Ben Arthur (The Cobbler)

CONDITIONS:         Bright and sunny 14C

COMMENTS:

Since school age, I wanted to climb the iconic “Cobbler” and decided today was the day. Growing up in Glasgow, with a few visits to Arrochar during school trips, it seemed all my outdoor loving friends had climbed this mountain, but for one reason or another, I hadn’t. Many a time I would look up from Loch Long, naively trying to find the mountain that was shaped like a guy who fixed shoes.

Named after a cobbler’ last, the device to hold the shoe whilst being formed, this mountain has wonderful skylines viewed some distance back from the main valley approach from Loch Long. Via the car park on the A82 there is an obvious forestry commission path enabling access to the upper valley. This path is well established with a great number of annual visitors who utilise the easy approach to the neighbouring Munros of Beinn Narnain and Ben Ime.

Following the zigzagging path up the hill, I was soon out of the forest and following the waters of  the Allt a'Bhalachain burn. The weather was terrific with a light breeze and uninterrupted sunshine, heralding a suggestion of warmth for so early in the year. I was enjoying my first climb of the season in shirt sleeves with my winter woollies well hidden in the backpack.

Reaching the famous Narnain boulders, strewn over the hillside, the emerging view of my destination was stunning. The contrast of Ben Arthur to its surroundings is so striking, with its jagged, rocky top compared to the rolling grass covered hills leading back down to the Loch. It’s as though something simply scooped away the centre of the mountain in one coarse grab, leaving the ragged debris behind. 

Walking parallel to the burn, the going was nice and easy, with the warmth of the sun on my body and the mountain looming ever steeper ahead. Within 30 mins of topping out of the forest, the path makes a cross roads just below the rocky face of the mountain. One route towards Ben Ime, one route to Beinn Narnain, or the last; a trek to the rear of the Cobbler for a relatively straight forward accent. I chose a different approach.

Branching off the track, I headed straight up through the collection of large boulders below what would be the centre of the anvil. As the sun slide behind my destination, and shadows dropped the air temperature, I began to generate my own warmth. The route was a terrific scramble, climbing over boulder outcrops, grassy verges and many smaller sheep tracks. Enjoying the ‘hands on’ grapple to the top was most enjoyable surpassed only by the shear glory of cresting the top, returning into bright sunlight and the wonderful views below.

After a challenging accent, it was with shear joy that I took in the panorama. Looking west to Ben Ime, clad with the last snows of spring, and then south to the Clyde estuary, the vantage point was splendid. To the north, the mountain's distant highland cousins stand proud, but don’t feel within ‘touching distance’ the way the Arrochar Alps do. 

Walking further south towards the proper central summit of the mountain, I could make out, far below, other walkers who had chosen to follow the more sedate path. As I reached the ‘eye’ and viewed the true summit beyond, I contemplated climbing the tower of granite, but only for a second. Doing so might be a good idea in company, but a bit ill-advised on my own.

Post lunch, consisting of corned beef sandwiches; I considered heading back down the rear access route and going on to climb Ben Narnain. I could then return to Succoth on a more direct line, however events conspired against me as my telephone signal returned, picking up various messages which effectively ended my outing.

Retreating along the Allt a'Bhalachain burn, with the ache of exercise in my legs, I was entirely satisfied with my climb. I had finally managed to climb the Cobbler, and was left wanting to turn and climb right back up. 

CONCLUSIONS:

Setting out today with high expectations, it was extremely refreshing that the day did in fact live up to these. With the rugged shape and climb and the resultant views from the top, the mountain did in fact do ‘everything it says on the tin.’ With lots of sunshine, little wind and the surroundings of the Arrochar region, can a few hours be spent doing anything better on a solitary walk? I certainly don’t think so.

RATING:                   9/10

EFFORT:                   MED.

West Highland Way 2009

BRADLEY BOYS ‘09

WEST HIGHLAND WAY (95 miles)

‘It’s just a glorified pub crawl!’

APRIL 6^th – APRIL 10^th

Bradley Bhoys:

Paul, Chris, Stevie, Joe, John, Wee Kieran and Wee Ryan.

(Image above taken at the official start point of the West Highland Way, in Milngavie Town Centre.)

West highland Way                DAY 1             MONDAY 6^th APRIL ‘09

LOCATION:              MILNGAVIE TO BALMAHA (19 miles)

CONDITIONS:         OVERCAST THEN LIGHT RAIN.

COMMENTS:                      

The ‘Magnificent Seven’ rode out at 8:15am from Milngavie modelling the silliest looking headwear we could get our hands on. Paul was wearing a Guiness fly swatter, Chris had a straw hat complete with pig tails, I had a Brown wig and white cowboy hat (courtesy of John), Joe had a Celtic FC jester hat and John had a Russian military cosy toes for his head!

The 2 boys Kieran and Ryan, set off dressed in their CF trust T-shirts and full of the beans of youth. By the time we reached our first pace marker of Mugdock Park, their enthusiasm had weaken by a degree.

We were setting a good pace covering the first 4 miles in an hour or so and it wasn’t long before Joe left his ‘mark’ in the Woods just beyond the Park. As Joe caught up we left the trees behind and entered the deforested landscape near Carbeth.

We proceeded along the old forest road and took in the glorious views of Dumgoyne in the distance. The walk at this point was great, easy going with a bit of sunshine breaking through. We continued at the same easy pace to we reached our first planned stop at the Beech Tree Inn, near Dumgoyne Distillery. The look on the 2 boys faces when we realised there would be no coca cola, as promised, because the Inn was shut on Mondays, was priceless. Around 11am we had some sandwiches and shared 2 cans of lager, supplied by Joe, after covering 6 miles so far.

Continuing along the disused railway line towards our next planned stop of Drymen,   the young boys were now flagging and being promised ice cream in Drymen to keep them going. Arriving where the Way passes Drymen at 1.30pm we stopped for a rest. It was at this point that Chris’s feet started to become a feature. Two large blisters underneath each foot where hampering his progress. After a short break and treatment to the feet, we were soon on the road again.

We were all doing fine until we emerged through the wood land of Garadhban Forrest and viewed Conic hill in the Distance. This was clearly no little obstacle. It was a worrying thought to have to climb this after 18 miles and at the slower pace we were doing as Chris’ foot pain kicked in.

He was in real pain now lagging at the rear as Joe, John and Kieran seared ahead to gain the top as quickly as they could. Paul went up next followed with me and Ryan and lastly Chris. It was on the accent of this hill that I first thought Chris might not complete the journey if his feet continued giving him the pain he was obviously in.

Eventually, after a slippy decent of Conic Hill, we reached Balmaha and the glory of a soft warm bed. We were all exhausted but euphoric at reaching our first destination. The BB meant a lovely warm shower then out again to the Oak Tree Inn for Scran and Guiness – Magic!!!!

The night drew to a close with Chris in Pain, Ryan and Kieran hyper due to excessive sugary drinks, and the rest of us fair Fluted. Little did I realise at the time that this was one of the more sober nights!!

What a day!

CONCLUSION:        Terrific day but ominous pain to feet.

EFFORT:                   Medium – High.

RATING:                   7/10

West highland Way                DAY 2             TUESDAY 7^th APRIL ‘09

LOCATION:              BALMAHA TO INVERARNAN (21 miles)

CONDITIONS:         RAIN THEN MORE RAIN.

COMMENTS:

The day started well with a hearty breakfast after a great night sleep in a very soft bed. Staring out at the rain, we all wondered if it would ever let up. Claire soon arrived, as planned, to take Kieran and Ryan home, bringing fresh sandwiches for today’s lunch. Shortly afterwards, we set off, around 9:30am, in full wet gear and 2 sets of feet lighter.

And that left 5.

The first section towards Rowardenan was very enjoyable with undulating terrain and good hikes. Most of us were enjoying a good pace but Chris was slipping further and further behind. Reaching Rowardenan at 1pm, it had taken us 3 hrs to cover just 7 miles. By now the heavy rain was falling steadily. Stopping for a pint, a bite to eat and a chance to dry out in ‘The Clansman’ bar in Rowardenan, we then headed onwards towards our next scheduled stop of Inversnaid, the 15-mile point in the days walk.

By now Chris was at snails pace and needed to be kept in sight at all times. This meant that our overall speed was a great concern with 20 odd miles to cover today. After a further 2 hours we were all really concerned for him. We were traversing some seriously harsh terrain along the Loch side and Chris was finding the way very tricky as his problems with his feet began to affect his legs and balance.

As we reached Inversnaid he was putting on a brave face but it was clear he would struggle badly over the next 6 miles. At 4pm we left Inversnaid targeting arrival at Inverarnan for around 7pm. Chris almost immediately fell behind. With the weather worsening and fatigue setting in, I told the rest to go on and I would stay with Chris to see him to the BB. In failing light, due to the heavy cloud, I knew I had to leave Chris alone for a time. My legs were beginning to cease up at his pace and pretty soon I would be in no condition to help him when needed. I explained as much to Chris and set off.

Quickly catching up with Paul and bypassing him, I soon caught Joe and John. We three stayed together at a better pace than any other point of the day. We reached the BB at 7:30pm, greeted by a freezing cold caravan with no obvious drying facility. Paul arrived seconds later totally drenched by fresh monsoon-esk rain. Quickly changing into dryer clothes which had been delivered by the bag carrying service, I grabbed a head torch from a friend and headed back up the hill to retrieve Chris.

The first few steps from the caravan will never be forgotten, they were the hardest of my life, but pretty soon I loosened up and got moving.

Retreating back along the path towards Inversnaid I met Chris about 1 mile from the BB. It took another hour to get him back down and we arrived at the caravan at 8:50pm. Now dark, we were both shattered.

Initially intending to repeat the last evenings banter, we headed for dinner and a pint at the Drovers Inn, but we weren’t really fit for it. Being too exhausted and cold, we hardly touched our dinner, compounded by the time we were able to sit down to it. Within an hour we finished up heading back to the BB for some kip.

Unfortunately it took another hour to set up our front room to dry out our gear for the next day. This meant Joe and I slept right there to keep an eye on the wet gear through the night, needless to say Joe couldn’t get into his bed if he tried anyway. Chris was comatose across it.

Having called home earlier, Chris let us know his Way was finished; he was being picked up the following day.

CONCLUSION:        The hardest day of walking I think any of us has done, compounded by the stop start pace in bad conditions.

EFFORT:                   High, very demanding.

RATING:                   7/10

West highland Way                DAY 3             WEDNESDAY 8^th APRIL ‘09

LOCATION:              INVERARNAN – BRIDGE OF ORCHY (19 miles)

CONDITIONS:         DRY THEN WET LATER

COMMENTS:

Waking in the caravan in lower than normal spirits, we faced the prospect of Chris leaving us this morning. With a chap at the door our breakfast was then delivered in catering bowls. This was entertaining as, upon finding a loaf in the fridge the night before, we thought this was a kind gesture to allow us to make our lunch for today, unfortunately it was actually intended for this mornings breakfast toast!

The day started, again, with rain as we set off. We had said our goodbyes to Chris, leaving him in the Drover’s, and headed up the glen towards Crianlarich (6 miles away). Setting a much better pace than the previous days we very quickly got into a high spirited mood. The going was easier than yesterday on good wide surfaces but the weather was as bad with rain and high winds. However, we arrived at the ‘wooden gate’ above Crianlarich at 10:45 am, after only 2hrs walking.

We decided to miss out walking down the 15min diversion to Crainlarich and headed straight on towards Tyndrum, which was another 6 miles distant. We stopped just above the gate on a wet hillside and had a cup of soup and a piece of chocolate. One memorable moment was as we topped the hill 30 steps later to find the 2 ‘German’ guys sitting at a nice picnic bench enjoying their scran!

The next few miles were very enjoyable, walking through undulating pine encrusted woodland paths in dry weather! Motoring on we reached Tyndrum at 1:15pm. As we had covered 12 miles in just over 4 hrs we decided to have a treat lunch in ‘Paddy’s Bar’. This excellent wee stop restored sore feet for 30mins allowing us to enjoy 2 pints of the black stuff and a plate of soup, pure Magic!

After covering 12 miles, we had enjoyed a great morning’s walk and a refreshing lunch. Leaving the pub behind we started up the road towards one of my favourite glens, and just as the sun came out, there ahead was Beinn Dorian, dominating the skyline above the Auch Glen.

Walking along on the old military road the terrific mountain scenery all around lifted our spirits greatly, to the extent that it was easy to forget how hard the trek had been so far. The blend of scenery and variable weather had snow-capped mountains, under patchy blue sky to the front, and rain clouds bursting further up the Auch Glen, creating glorious rainbows. In all it was something to remember. At one stage we were treated to a breathtaking double rainbow, which was the lowest I had ever seen.

As our bodies began to feel the pace, we realised targeting arriving in Bridge of Orchy for 4pm may have been a bit unrealistic. By now John had developed a Shin splint and Joe had a foot problem, probably due to artificially drying our boots the previous night!

However, we reached the Bridge of Orchy Sleeper at 4:30pm and we then (two of us), had to walk down to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel to collect our bags!!! On our return, I ended up on the top bunk of three and Joe was on the opposite side of the room from us, 1 up amongst the other guests!

The accommodation in the West Highland Sleeper was very good value for money and the patrons couldn’t have been nicer, providing a very welcome evening meal as well as the planned breakfast the following morning. After a well earned shower and shave we then hit the Hotel to get some drinking done and try and catch any football on the telly.

The night was one to remember. Although the hotel wouldn’t turn on the TV for any sport, probably because their guests were still eating, we had a great time with the rest of the walkers on the route. As the four of us sat drinking, first Alison then her husband Willy John Paul Francis McBride, joined in and it wasn’t long before 2 other lady walkers joined us for a wonderful fun filled night. We even managed to still be partially sober by the time the ‘Elite’ 4 man North Face team from Edinburgh, arrived about 3 hours after us….again! We all sat together and got well and truly smashed!

As we left the hotel and headed back up to the sleeper, maybe it was just the booze but it was one of the most stunning moonlit nights I can recall. The wind was driving the cloud north and the full moon was turning everything silver, it was magical.

CONCLUSION:        Great views along the way and a wonderful night sky made today the best yet for sheer enjoyment. The weather wasn’t too bad, the accommodation excellent and the whole experience of spending the night in a converted railway station just added a bit of something special to the whole week.

EFFORT:                   Medium – High

RATING:                   8/10

West highland Way                DAY 4             THURSDAY  9^th APRIL ‘09

LOCATION: BRIDGE OF ORCHY TO KINLOCHLEVEN (21miles)

CONDITIONS:         POOR. RAIN FOR 90% OF THE DAY.

COMMENTS:

This morning we were all up nice and early at about 6:45am full of beans ready to face what we expected would be the hardest of the 5 days trek. We had all had a great night in the hotel sharing stories and laughs and way too much booze, with all of us secretly feeling the effects. The bunkroom of nine all had been drinking together and there was great comradery using the only communal lavvy, especially since we had all had about 8 pints of the Black stuff the night before!

Setting off with our first destination of the Kings House Hotel in mind, about 12 miles away, we climbed out of Bridge of Orchy. This initially was a pleasant, but steep 400m accent from the valley floor, but we soon felt the night before working on us. Things got even better when we (after joking about it since placing them there) realised we left our whole pack of sandwiches back in the Sleeper’s fridge. What a laugh as the 4 of us, sweaty, hung over, Guiness soaked men looked back down to the Sleeper and thought; ‘I’m no going back for the them!’

Deciding to push on regardless with 2 chocolate bars and 2 flasks of soup between us, we carried on.  Starting our decent towards Inverornan, our 2-mile marker, the ever present rain was falling heavily, pushing us on. We had a lot of ground to cover and it wasn’t going to be easy. As the decent continued, John’s shin splint began to give him real concern, popping his first of many painkillers, but the relentless pace wasn’t slackened.

Driving on across the first stretches of moorland in heavy down pours the trek was the wettest to date. Keeping our heads down we didn’t stop again until we reached the River Ba. As we paused on the bridge crossing for a cup of soup, the prevailing wind battered us into submission, and of we plodded again. We tried everything to keep our minds off the road ahead as the scenery gave no distraction with the weather blanketing everything in mist and rain. Name games, ‘I spy,’ and any other distractions were used to keep the monotonous walk at bay. Happily, this done the trick.

Approaching Black Mount, we had been walking for 3+ hours in barren landscapes and the change, cresting the rise above the A82 was very dramatic. Walking down the hill towards the ski lifts, with Glen Coe in the distance and the Kings house Hotel about a mile away, you could be forgiven for thinking the worst was over. The wonderful scenery, although partially hidden by low cloud, was back in abundance, with Etive Mor grinning down on us.

It was roughly 11am, at this point and estimating making Kings House in 20 minutes, didn’t seem unrealistic. As it happens the distance was actually about 2 miles, and we arrived wind swept and sodden around 12 noon.

Enjoying a very welcome lunch in the Walkers bar, washed down with a single pint of the good stuff, we let our clothes dry out a bit on the 6-foot tall backed chairs! This also gave us the chance to meet other travellers already in the pub. The general consensus was that the up coming ‘Devil Staircase’ was a great experience but the decent into Kinlochleven was difficult. They weren’t kidding.

At 1pm, to the surprise of most of the walkers there, we geared up and headed back out into the howling rain on our last stretch of what had already been a long day. Confident of success, we weren’t about to let a bit of rain stop us, especially since the 2 guys from the pub the night before had just came in and said they had had enough, He He!!

Having just covered 12 miles in 4 hrs, we expected to cover the next nine in a further 3 hours, reaching our BB for 4pm. Setting off, heads down, we drove on into Glen Coe and the foreboding Devils staircase. Luckily the wind was on our backs or I don’t think we would have made it as easily. We reached the bottom of the hill after an easy 2 miles and immediately headed up, again probably pushing too quickly. We climbed the 1000 ft in about 35 mins being ecstatic at the top.  The climb had been punishing buffeted all the way by a harsh cross wind.

High spirits were short lived, as the decent down towards Kinlochleven began. Maybe it was just the terrain or the tired bodies but this ‘protracted’ decent was excruciating especially for John and me. John’s shin was agony, popping pills like sweets and my knees and lower back joints were on fire with every step. We both had 2 poles each and the pace became a crawl.

The first section, down to the pump station of about an hour, let us see Kinlochleven in the distance but the terrain was stepped and uneven and every impact grated. Our pace dropped considerably as did our spirits. The next section, was a smoother gradient, with less steps, being the approach road up to the pumps, but this was difficult for different reasons. Due to the mature of the grit surface, our tired bodies slipped and jarred as gravity seemed to accelerate us down hill. I felt as though I was continuously ‘putting on the brakes’ which sent shockwave up my already tired legs.

We just wanted it to end. I doubt anyone would have rejected a lift down to the BB at this point.

With a short break after about 90 mins climbing down, Paul shared a Snickers bar with me and I’m convinced this got me home. The energy hit was instant and we pushed on again emerging into Kinlochleven town centre at about 4:15pm.

The BB was lovely, a stereotypical highland guest house run by 2 wee old women and all the swirling florally finishes you could pack in. As I lay awaiting my turn in the shower, I felt as though my feet were on fire. Once in, I showered for what seemed like half an hour, but when we arrived at the local Pub for dinner and booze, surprisingly it was just after 5pm. We had covered 21+ miles through terrible weather and rough terrain, again at about 3 miles an hour.

With a cracking meal, we enjoyed some football on TV and had a family pool tournament while waiting on our fellow walkers to come in. The ‘North facers’ passed the pub looking extremely wasted at about 7:30pm and maybe with hindsight it was a good thing Joe never caught them to rub there faces in it again. Willy came in alone at 8pm and shared a few jars, as Alison lay comatose back at their BB.

Leaving around 10pm to head to the BB we managed to loose Joe in the 300 yards to the house. Once again that ‘no chance’ expression was on all of our faces, but finally John picked up the baton and went to find his big brother. Ten minutes later we sat chatting to our hosts before heading to bed for 11pm.

CONCLUSION:                    Excellent middle and end but the decent into Kinlochleven was the hardest walking I’ve ever done.

EFFORT:                               High

RATING:                               9/10

West highland Way                DAY 5             FRIDAY  10^th APRIL ‘09

LOCATION:               KINLOCHLEVEN TO FORT WILLIAM

CONDITIONS:           HEAVY RAIN THEN BRIGHT AND WARM

COMMENTS:

After a great night and a wonderful sleep, we sat at breakfast wondering if this would match the other memories of this leg. We were not disappointed. The ladies provided an excellent table of food and I can’t praise them enough. Our BB stay at Hermon House was the best of the trip.

Gearing up setting off on our last leg of our epic journey, it seemed only appropriate that it should be raining. It was also true to form that the day began with a hard climb out of the valley! The first objective was to walk for 6 miles or so, have a short break and finish the last 8 miles at a nice easy pace.

Within 10 minutes John was clearly struggling with his inflamed shin splint. We discussed him getting the bus to Fort William but he quickly dismissed the idea, straightening his back with determination and setting the pace in front of us.

 The first mile or so was relatively easy going in the heavy rain, but then as we began to climb, the terrain became much harder. This climb, in my opinion, was as tough as the devils staircase the day before, but maybe that was the 8 pints of Guiness from the night before talking. However, at the top of the hill thankfully, there wasn’t the same decent back down, with a generally flat walk through beautiful valley scenery.

We once again were walking at a good pace, even with john’s injury worries, and covered the first 6 miles in about 3 hours. The walk along the Sheilings towards the ruin at Blar Chaorainn was relaxing, but yet again the weather was removing any enjoyment of the surroundings scenery because generally we couldn’t see any!

We reached the end of the military road in the valley at Lundavra, where yet again we discussed John taking an easier and quicker route to Fort William via the tarmaced road, which would have taken 2.5 miles off his distance. After about 20 secs he dismissed the idea and started up towards the forested hillsides of Blair Macdrynie. He was in pain but showed real determination and desire not to let his injury stop him.

An hour later he was glad he chose to continue, as both the weather and the terrain changed for the better. The rise from Lundavra to An Dun leading into Glen Nevis consisted of soft marshy soils and winding paths, suiting his injury better. With the weather brightening up we managed to appreciate the scenery a bit more. As the sun eventually shone clearly, the views of the hills where terrific and we all took plenty images on camera. We then re-entered the last stretch of covered woodland and emerged above the caravan park of Auchintee at the foot of the Ben Nevis walking route. We were nearly there.

Taking the opportunity to get the wet gear off, we stopped for a breather before walking down easy terrain towards the public road below. Yet again this distance was deceiving as the time to reach the road seemed to drag on and on.

Reaching the banks of River Nevis we proceeded along the carriageway towards the town centre. Within 15mins we were met by Chris, who had came up on the train to meet us, with some welcome liquid refreshments and we all walked together, as we had set out, to the end of the way reaching it at 2:30pm. 

After photos at the signpost (one taken of all of us by an English Latvian!) marking the end of the way, we headed to the pub near the railway to freshen up. We had covered 14 miles in 6hrs and took the opportunity to have a wash and a tidy up at the visitor’s centre, before moving onto the town centre.

Quickly finding an Irish pub in the centre called Crofters for some lunch and a pint, we immersed ourselves in platitudes for completing the Way. When we got up to leave around 5pm for the train journey home, needless to say we were a bit worse for wear. Picking up 6 bottles of red wine and other refreshments for the celebratory return leg, we anticipated a wonderful journey home. Indeed it was, making new friends and singing all the way!!!

WEST HIGHLAND WAY CONCLUSION:           

Although 7 started the ‘Way’ we lost the 2 boys as planned on day 1, but losing Chris on day 2 was a real blow to him. Finishing in the style we did as 4 brothers was a terrific and memorable achievement, one that will not leave me.

The West Highland Way shocked me for a few reasons, but mainly because no book, pamphlet or DVD had prepared me for the amount of climbing involved. Throughout the week I reckon we climbed approx. 5000 ft over those 5 days, which was much unexpected. I’m glad my personnel preparation consisted of so many hills, but this wasn’t deliberate and was more luck rather than good planning. 

Using accommodation, showers and no camping was a good decision for us and enabled us to maintain the SAS speed, each day. The only disappointing venue was Inverarnan, where frankly, it was poor. Having not prepared the caravan for 5 soaking travellers in advance, even though we called ahead with a correct arrival time was very poor. Also having no artificial drying area out with the caravan was absurd in these conditions, leaving the customers to dry gear in the space where we slept.

Overall, I loved the walk; I love the company, I loved the scenery (when I could see it) and I loved the way new friends were made along the way, fellow travellers braving the elements with the same light hearted welcoming approach, but just at slower speeds!! Having spent a wonderful evenings with these new friends and the way in which everyone conducted themselves was a great testimony to us all.

It was wonderful – See you next year, and the year after and the year……….

EFFORT:       LAST DAY (MED)    OVERALL     MEDIUM.

                       

RATING:       LAST DAY (8/10)      OVERALL     9/10.

Beinn Vorlich (Loch Lomond)

DATE:                        March 2009                     

LOCATION:              Beinn Vorlich via Loch Sloy

Power Station car park A82

CONDITIONS:         Dull / overcast at base. Cloud cover and snow at summit

COMMENTS:

Having read various reviews on the many enjoyable routes associated with Beinn Vorlich, Beinn Vane and Beinn Narnain, I took the opportunity to experience one at first hand today. Usually climbed as part of a double or trio, climbing Beinn Vorlich individually has only a small number of reviews to note, but today I only had 3-4 hrs, so climbing one was enough for me.

Getting to the foot of these 3 hills was described as ‘a long walk,’ setting off from the car park adjacent to the power station on the A82. Unfortunately the descriptions weren’t far wrong. Setting off at 10am from the Inveruglas visitors centre, I quickly located the obvious path off the A82 leading up towards the access road for the Loch Sloy dam. After a protracted initial winding section of the road, built to achieve height quickly into the glen, the scenery begins to unfold, as does the tarmac under your feet.

To follow the routes detailed in the various books I had read, such as " The Munros" by Cameron McNeish, I should have continued along the road until it stopped at the dam. I just couldn’t do that. To my right, the rolling hillside called to me to rid myself of the artificial scar on the landscape and immerse myself in the mystery of the hills. Within minutes I had climbed over 50 ft on a parallel, but more direct course, towards Ben Vorlich which was just becoming visible in the distance.

Although a more direct route, it was also more demanding with the uneven ground, stream crossings and little scrambles across some isolated boulder groups, but it was worth it. If I had continued along the road I would have been down there looking up wondering, whereas now I was doing. As I gained height I gained distance from the road and felt sure this climbing would lessen that required once I was on the correct vertical approach to the summit. Within 30 minutes, the dam was ahead and 300ft below me, and it was time to stop the lateral trek and head truly upwards.

Initially gruelling, the climb stopped burning the fat of my legs as I reached the cloud line. With enough visibility ahead to realise I wasn’t near the top, I slogged on, but now the moisture in the cloud refreshed me on my way. Shortly the gradient lessened and the subsequent hollows and dips revealed themselves coated in deep snow. With no crampons or poles, the going slowed down, but was still enjoyable. I was still in my mountaineering infancy and the proximity of snow still felt like a novelty. In truth, I probably should have avoided the drifts and skirted their edges on my accent, but I ploughed through them revelling in the cold tops of my gaiters as the snow chilled my legs.

Within 20 mins or so of this childish journeying, I got my map out, corrected my bearing slightly and, with added care, headed straight for the top. To my joy the cloud began to thin and I got my first glimpses of the contained Loch below. Shortly, after only 1hr 40 mins, I gained the summit, but was unfortunately blind outside about 10 feet. Feeling just a little despondent, I shrugged of my pack and settled down for a drink and a sarny. As I was just about to head back down, full of regret for my lack of views, a gust of wind created just what I needed. For a full minute I had the glory of the Arrochar Alps laid out before me. Just before I was once again shrouded in the mist, I caught a glimpse of the white crowned heads of Beinn Ime in the distance dwarfing my next outing, Ben Vane. Relishing the prospect, I flung my bag to my back and headed downhill. 

The decent was a lot quicker than my traverse, as I followed the established path zigzagging all the way down the gully towards the concrete dam below. Although the route was much quicker, it became very challenging on my joints and thighs. I tend to climb and descend at the same pace, which I need to work on, as the burn on the way down was excruciating. Reaching the dam access road after 1hr of climbing down, my legs felt like rubber, but the long road ahead would surely stretch the tired muscles back into working order. A little over 30 mins later I emerged from the foliage onto the A82 and was back at my car 5 mins later, covering the whole climb and return in just over 3hrs, 40 mins.

CONCLUSIONS:

The climb was fantastic, and I am glad I changed the route slightly. Although not much it was enough to keep things real and add a bit of something extra. The views at the summit where brief and if I could change anything it would be to get a bit more clarity for photos, but the Scottish weather, predictably, was unpredictable.

I look forward to getting some good images of Ben Vorlich from the summit of her sister, Ben Vane the next time.

RATING:                   8/10

EFFORT:                   HIGH (due to upgrading the route only)

Ben Lomond and Ptarmigan ridge Feb 2009

CONDITIONS:

Early mist at Rowerdenan, cloud cover at summit.
Temp base: 4C         Summit -1C

COMMENTS: 

On arrival at Rowerdenan car park, the scene was absolutely gorgeous, with mist rising slowly from the loch and resting around 100ft above the water. High above, the mountain peak of Ben Lomond sat proudly above its own cloud collar, punching into the clear reddish sky above. In general the weather seemed perfect for climbing, with sparse patchy cloud and little to no wind. Having climbed Ben Lomond before, my planned route today was to walk up the same tourist route but return via the Ptarmigan ridge for the first time.

Setting off up the well established route, i was immediately struck by the amount of work carried out on the path since my previous visit a few years before. On my last visit i hadn't noticed any anti erosion work, however, on this trip i couldn't miss it. From stairways constructed in stone, and path crossing culverts lined in slate, the measures were blatantly obvious. What had happened? The route looked more like a pedestrian footpath in a shopping precinct, than the hardly distinguishable hill route i previously loved. Although i am fully aware of the need for conversation of these routes, this was way over the top in my opinion. Surely the user expects some hardship to reach the summit of a Munro, rather than holding their hand all the way up?

This artificial feeling was ruining my walk, but thankfully the impact of the path began to lessen as i left the forested section behind, emerging onto the higher grass covered slopes beyond the first gate. The climb was now well under way with steeper gradients leading to Sron Aonaich, which gives the novice the first glimpse of many false summits. As i crested the steep rise, sucking in the fresh clean air, i was once again taken by the glorious scenery of the Loch. By now the mist had risen to peak level and the morning sun was bathing the waters in sunshine. Life too was becoming more evident, with boats on the loch and more activity in the visitors centre below, but the main attraction to me was the crowning glory of the mountain up ahead.

As the altitude increased, the temperature fell and i took the opportunity to put on another layer, donning the warm hat and gloves too. Pausing briefly to take pictures of the southern highland boundary fault line as it crosses the loch, i then turned away marching onwards and upwards. Within a further 40 minutes i had reached the point around 200m below the summit. The next section from memory was tough, so slowing down, i began to pick my way through the snowy zig zag path as it rose up the mountain. By now there was climbers visible behind me, but nothing in front and i really enjoyed placing my feet in the deep snow rising steadily.

Within 20 minutes i was at yards from the summit and enjoying a private viewing of the surrounding scenery. It was almost godly. In my mind, I was the only person for miles, standing atop a mountain with literally the world at my feet. With only my sub zero breathe as a companion, i reached the summit in a little over 2 hours. The top was cold and exposed but this only enhanced the feeling of remote serenity. I was really enjoying myself. The view of the other Arrochar Alps, the Highlands to the north and east and the flatter southern reaches of the loch present a wonderful spectacle, a true testimony to the varied landscapes of our country.

After a brief lunch stop, taking my map heading, i dropped down the north side of the summit looking for the path down to Ptarmigan. This was very hairy. Entirely not what I expected after, what is in general, an easy climb. The initial section is a vertical scramble through 30m of rock, followed quickly by 100m of steep graded rocky paths. At one point the path has a pinch point, a very narrow section, no ore then 500mm wide, where the potential drop to the north was 1000ft and the drop to the south at least 600ft. Very nerve racking, but plenty hand holds got my shaking legs over the worst of this before the path relaxes a bit.

From the rocky outcrops the path continues to meander along the obvious ridge and down towards Ptarmigan. Not to be taken lightly at any time, the path criss crosses to control the descent but this keeps the excitement high and the boredom usually apparent in most return trips, well in check. After at least 90 mins and some very wet muddy steps, i emerged back onto the solid ground which is the road leading back to visitors centre, however, if you think that finishes the walk you would be mistaken, as it is still 15 minutes to the cars.

CONCLUSION: 

Although a demanding chore at times, spoiled by the unnatural anti-erosion works to the path, this was a fine climb, enhanced by the scenery, the weather and the snowy top. Having never climbed a Munro more than once before, this experience certainly left me wanting to go up Ben Lomond again. What better compliment could a mountain ask for?

RATING:  Great in spells, scenery wonderful, path poor.                       7/10

EFFORT:  Medium.

Ben Cluech Ochil hills Alloa. (Not a Munro but a great walk)

WEDNESDAY 20^TH JAN 2009

LOCATION:              Ben Cleuch via Mill Glen                  2365ft

CONDITIONS:         Overcast at base, high winds and -2 at summit.

COMMENTS:                      

Today with around an hour on my hands, I intended to walk up the Mill Glen in Alva, however, ultimately, the walk became one of the best experiences of my life.

Starting in the Alva Glen car park, I followed the sign posts up the glen with the sound of rushing water at the fringe of my hearing. The sound increased as I trekked up through the Glen, using the well maintained tourist path. Following the line of the Mill Water which cascades down through the glen on its ultimate journey to the Firth of Forth, the scenery was resplendent in a crisp white coating of frost. Reaching the end of the path, I then headed west following a worn path towards the summit of Wood hill, which I had previously thought was roughly the same height of my last climb in the area, Dumyat.

Gaining the summit of Woodhill after around 40mins of climbing, I was treated to uninterrupted stunning views of the surrounding Ochils and the Stirling flatlands below. Also, the distinct difference in temperature resulted in the immediate landscape having a very wintry aspect compare to the base of the hill. The snowline, which was only now feet above where I stood, was so defined you could be mistaken for believing it had been painted there.

As I stood absorbing the atmosphere, I was drawn to explore the rest of the Daiglen Burn valley which forms the main tributary feeding the Mill glen burn. From a glance it would appear to be quite straight forward to circumnavigate the area and take in some terrific climbs in doing so. With only a brief glance at the time to consider the viability of continuing on directly, I set off.

The plan was to head north to Ben Ever, swing east to Ben Cleuch and back down into the Valley via the Law. Little did I know then what a great decision this was?

Trekking north, I decided to keep the obvious picket fence as my line of accent towards Ben Ever. This was mainly because it was the only manmade feature visible through the 2 foot of snow covering the entire vista, but also I felt it could provide some restraint from the growing south westerly wind buffeting me continuously.  This provided to be a wise decision; as the snow deepened and the wind increased, I elected to stick to the fence which didn’t go to the summit of the hill, but skirted around the lee of the hill, giving some respite from the strong wind and chill factor.

The going was tough. The snow deepened to around 4ft as the fence caught and dropped it. For the first time that day I contemplated my survival never mind completing the walk, however by pushing on and sheltering in the shadow of the hill, I calmed my nerves, paused and breathed deeply. Using the fence as a guideline, I struggled on through the thigh deep snow and reached the head of the valley at the bealach between Ben Ever and Ben Cluech. Turning East, I headed up the steep climb of Ben Cleuchs western slope towards its summit somewhere ahead in the gloom.

After around 90 mins of climbing, with the wind favourably behind me, I gained the shoulder of Ben Cleuch. With a rueful backward glance I realised that although difficult, the last half an hour had been exhilarating. Turning southwest I headed up a far gentler climbed towards the summit cairn vaguely outlined in the distance.

Although well established, the summit doesn’t give much in the way of shelter as the gradual slopes leading up to it allow the wind to reach full speed. The ice and snow around the area reflected this with some dramatic horizontal icicles attached both to the cairn structure and the neighbouring fence line. These had been driven so horizontally by the elements that if you didn’t know better you would swear some artist had crafted them.

The views were terrific. To the north, west and east the sky was a clear fresh blue contrasted perfectly against the white shrouded majesty of Ben Cluechs towering siblings. Facing south, the flat expanse of the Stirling plains, reflected the same colour contrast, but completely opposes the grandeur and reach of the highlands behind to the north. The shear, sudden step up from the flat lands below emphasises the geological fault which literally gave rise to the Ochils, but it also made me consider this place as a demographical transition. A look back at the valley suggests comfort, routine, work, industry, housing, technology and many other man made features, yet turning to the north suggests nothing but barren wildness, screaming with solitude, just waiting to be explored.

The 5 minutes I took absorbing and articulating these images was a turning point in my life. I decided there and then that I wouldn’t simply go for the odd walk anymore. I needed to submerge myself in this beautiful country. From this point forward I would become a serious walking enthusiast, taking in as much of our home grown scenery as possible.

With a twinge of regret, I turned my back to the highlands and began my decent, however, there was still an encouraging climb to consider en route; the Law. Having to slow my pace as the exposed hillsides ice and snow underfoot were now a tricky feature, I approached the north face of the Law. At this point the wind was swirling with a chill factor way below freezing. The climb to the summit of the hill is aided by the placement of the fence line which takes a direct route to the summit, and what a summit!

Standing at the top, with 360 degrees of interrupted views, this is well worth the effort, however I considered the fence line as a life line as I was buffeted almost off the hill. Not for the faint hearted in these conditions. Looking south there is a clear steep path leading down following the same fence line. This needed to be negotiated with care but it wasn’t long before I was able to enjoy the scenery without the threat of being blown over. The ridge lent great views eastward to the Gannel Burn in full flow and westward to Eliouston Hill. In fact my path of accent earlier in the day was now obvious across the valley, as I had climbed up towards Wood hill.

Reaching the foot of the long steep decent of the Law, I headed back into the Mill Glen and back onto the tourist path. Reaching the car park after 3+ hours of climbing in tough conditions, I was exhausted, but boy was I thrilled. Today had been fantastic and my time in these wonderful hills would not be short lived.

CONCLUSIONS:

The topography of the landscape and the drastic change in temperature between top and bottom made this walk unforgettable. The wintry views from the summit of Ben Cleuch and the Law were breathtaking, taking in Wood hill, Ben Ever and the distant Highlands. Some may say these would be better in the summer months, as they become rich in colour, but I don’t agree. I think the clean crisp white contrast to a clear winter sky just can’t be beaten.

In hindsight, the trek was ill prepared, as I only intended a short hours walk in the lower foothills and next time I would do things with more care, such a taking some food and water!, but I think the enjoyment was enhanced by the challenge of getting back down after setting out, ‘off the cuff’ as I did.

Superb day can’t wait to return again.

RATING:                               9/10

EFFORT:                               HIGH – V.HIGH (wind and cold)

bein dorain and beinn donaidh

Climbing these, my 17th and 18th Munros, was with a great sense of fulfillment. Finally having the opportunity to experience the eagerly anticipated climb was further excenuated as i walked through 3 seasons in one day. For the last few years these two grand mountains have glared down at me, during recent journeys along the west highland way. Being within touching distance of this part of the route, they overshadow the glen with their grand sloping concave aspects. So with a smile towards the burn running straight up towards their bealach, i started my eagerly anticipated journey to the two mountains.

The initial climb up this first section was boggy as the recent weather became more mild. Underfoot the muddy path sucked at my boots until reaching the higher ground around 300m. The view along glen orchy was especially stunning as the early sunshine bathed the glen in gold, however, ahead on my route, the cloud was forming worryingly. Within about 30 mins i had reached the foot of a much steeper climb just below the bealach as the growing wind swirled through the glen. Climbing steadily, i reached the cairn sitting at the midpoint between the two hills atop the bealach in 40 mins.

 Deciding to climb the lesser height summit of Beinn Donaidh first i took a map reading and headed north, towards the rear of the mountain. The path here lazily meandered around the shoulder of the mountain and i was beginning to loose faith in it ever heading towards the summit, however, with the tops in site further west, i broke from the path and prepared to use line of sight. Donning crampons, i climbed off the path always keeping the summit on my right. This allowed me to cross many areas of ice and snow beds, arriving at shallower ground around 50m from the perceived top.

Heading up the wind was driving into my face over the top of the hill and it felt very lonely. The wind chill felt like -20 but probably a lot less. Driving on a break in the clouds clearly identified the three summits and the mountain and i turned even more west to head to the middle and tallest cairn. This truly was breathtaking. I found it impossible to stand too long as the wind pummelled me continuously, but for the little time i was there,  the summit was revealed in stark reality. A wrong turn here could have nasty consequences. Keeping the cliffs to my right i turned heading back down a similar route towards the bealach. Taking only 80 mins to my first summit, and with my back to the wind, i was hopeful to reach the next within a further hour.

Descending back down was straightforward as every step gained more clarity as the gathering cloud diminished. The summit of Bein Dorian was revealed in one such interval and the climb looked quite exciting. The first stage was steep over loose boulders, which is always cumbersome wearing spikes, but this soon gave way to a more stable path. Once up the steep first 50m, the gradient lessened for some time allowing the wind to really take hold.

At this point, a snow shower came in too, which meant i was climbing exposed, being blown towards the crags on my right and being blinded by freezing snow. Great stuff. Within a further 10 mins the gradient increased again and the wind fell as i was sheltered by huge boulder formations. The respite was excellent with gaps in the clouds revealing too brief glances of the scenery below, but highlighting the location of the very near edges. Finally gaining the summit in these conditions was a relief, but short lived as one more of these gaps in the cloud revealed this wasn't in fact the summit, which was sitting another 10m higher beyond a minor gorge! 

Although probably an easy enough summer scramble, everything today was exaggerated by the conditions, and it took another 10 mins to safely reach the true cairn and summit. After 2.5hrs i had climber both summits through some trying weather and i was knackered. Having nowhere to shelter safely, i headed straight back, with the idea to stop for some lunch in the more sheltered route down. 20mins later i was sitting with my hat off enjoying a coffee on the sheltered side of the bealach cairn. Fantastic.

With an uneventful but annoyingly sunny return leg, i returned back to the car at the West Highland Sleeper, weary but ecstatic. Looking back towards the mountain, i was surprised at how quickly i had climbed both, being only away from the car for just under 4 hours. It probably helps that the station sits about 200 feet above sea level, but it is still quite a climb. I was very pleased overall, but a bit disappointed in the weather at the tops. The surrounding scenery looked perfect for some summit photographs, but up there today it was pointless with visibility zero most of the time.

As i packed my gear away, and changed into some dry clothes, i thought my wild places day was finished, until i looked up to find a Doe standing not 10 feet from the car. We had one of those amazing moments, locking eyes and not moving. After what seemed like an eternity, she turned and strolled off into the neighbouring field.

Crackin day, highly recommended.

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