Climbing these, my 17th and 18th Munros, was with a great sense of fulfillment. Finally having the opportunity to experience the eagerly anticipated climb was further excenuated as i walked through 3 seasons in one day. For the last few years these two grand mountains have glared down at me, during recent journeys along the west highland way. Being within touching distance of this part of the route, they overshadow the glen with their grand sloping concave aspects. So with a smile towards the burn running straight up towards their bealach, i started my eagerly anticipated journey to the two mountains.
The initial climb up this first section was boggy as the recent weather became more mild. Underfoot the muddy path sucked at my boots until reaching the higher ground around 300m. The view along glen orchy was especially stunning as the early sunshine bathed the glen in gold, however, ahead on my route, the cloud was forming worryingly. Within about 30 mins i had reached the foot of a much steeper climb just below the bealach as the growing wind swirled through the glen. Climbing steadily, i reached the cairn sitting at the midpoint between the two hills atop the bealach in 40 mins.
Deciding to climb the lesser height summit of Beinn Donaidh first i took a map reading and headed north, towards the rear of the mountain. The path here lazily meandered around the shoulder of the mountain and i was beginning to loose faith in it ever heading towards the summit, however, with the tops in site further west, i broke from the path and prepared to use line of sight. Donning crampons, i climbed off the path always keeping the summit on my right. This allowed me to cross many areas of ice and snow beds, arriving at shallower ground around 50m from the perceived top.
Heading up the wind was driving into my face over the top of the hill and it felt very lonely. The wind chill felt like -20 but probably a lot less. Driving on a break in the clouds clearly identified the three summits and the mountain and i turned even more west to head to the middle and tallest cairn. This truly was breathtaking. I found it impossible to stand too long as the wind pummelled me continuously, but for the little time i was there, the summit was revealed in stark reality. A wrong turn here could have nasty consequences. Keeping the cliffs to my right i turned heading back down a similar route towards the bealach. Taking only 80 mins to my first summit, and with my back to the wind, i was hopeful to reach the next within a further hour.
Descending back down was straightforward as every step gained more clarity as the gathering cloud diminished. The summit of Bein Dorian was revealed in one such interval and the climb looked quite exciting. The first stage was steep over loose boulders, which is always cumbersome wearing spikes, but this soon gave way to a more stable path. Once up the steep first 50m, the gradient lessened for some time allowing the wind to really take hold.
At this point, a snow shower came in too, which meant i was climbing exposed, being blown towards the crags on my right and being blinded by freezing snow. Great stuff. Within a further 10 mins the gradient increased again and the wind fell as i was sheltered by huge boulder formations. The respite was excellent with gaps in the clouds revealing too brief glances of the scenery below, but highlighting the location of the very near edges. Finally gaining the summit in these conditions was a relief, but short lived as one more of these gaps in the cloud revealed this wasn't in fact the summit, which was sitting another 10m higher beyond a minor gorge!
Although probably an easy enough summer scramble, everything today was exaggerated by the conditions, and it took another 10 mins to safely reach the true cairn and summit. After 2.5hrs i had climber both summits through some trying weather and i was knackered. Having nowhere to shelter safely, i headed straight back, with the idea to stop for some lunch in the more sheltered route down. 20mins later i was sitting with my hat off enjoying a coffee on the sheltered side of the bealach cairn. Fantastic.
With an uneventful but annoyingly sunny return leg, i returned back to the car at the West Highland Sleeper, weary but ecstatic. Looking back towards the mountain, i was surprised at how quickly i had climbed both, being only away from the car for just under 4 hours. It probably helps that the station sits about 200 feet above sea level, but it is still quite a climb. I was very pleased overall, but a bit disappointed in the weather at the tops. The surrounding scenery looked perfect for some summit photographs, but up there today it was pointless with visibility zero most of the time.
As i packed my gear away, and changed into some dry clothes, i thought my wild places day was finished, until i looked up to find a Doe standing not 10 feet from the car. We had one of those amazing moments, locking eyes and not moving. After what seemed like an eternity, she turned and strolled off into the neighbouring field.
Crackin day, highly recommended.
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